Middlesex Graduate Fashion Show 2013

Helping out at the graduate fashion show was a really valuable piece of experience and I am so glad I was a part of it. Overall the show went smoothly but in order to have it that way a huge number of tasks needed to be undertaken, many of which were managed by the first years.

As with most shows the morning was infinitely less busy than the afternoon and evening but there were still plenty of things to do. My tasks began with fetching rails from the fashion studios and setting them up in one of the two lecture theatres that were being used as backstage areas for the show. After we had completed this the third years came to hand in their garments on the rails.

Meanwhile I had been tasked with looking after the other lecture theatre which was to be used for hair and make up to ensure that all the equipment there and the food for models was not tampered with or moved by other members of the university. I helped the hair and make up artists to set up which involved moving tables and chairs as well as wiring up light-up mirrors.

I was selected to dress a male model, Mikey during the show. This meant I was required to dress for the final fittings before the show so as learn exactly how each garment was to be applied to the model and whether any accessories were to be worn and how these were to be worn as some designers had such specific requirements as to what needed to be buttoned and unbuttoned, whether socks were required, how the shoes are tied and even how a scarf is folded. Due to these specific requirements it was important to speak to each of the ten designers who outfits I was dressing during the show and to take notes and pin them to the garment bags so there were no mistakes in the show when pressure would be high but time would be short. The fitting is important as three models (one for each outfit in a designers collection) needed to be coordinated and it needed to be ensured that outfits would be going out in the right order to as to achieve maximum impact.

After the fitting was completed and any outfit changes were confirmed and the rail I would be using was finalised we moved the rails into the back stage area and prepared them for the show. This means removing the garment bags, ensuring fastenings were already open, shoes were aligned with their outfits and and matching socks with them ready. Also it was of vital importance that the garments were kept in show running order so as to ensure there was no confusion as to which outfit was going out on the runway when.

Durring the show the pace was hectic but manageable and everything managed to run smoothly. There were issues with some zips but every outfit went out on time and to the correct specifications as laid down by the designer. Pictures of some of the looks I dressed can be seen below:

After the show there will still tasks to undertake as it was down to the first years to leave the rooms we had used spotless. My first priority was to ensure that the garments I had dressed were back in their garment bags with any accompanying shoes, socks and accessories so that it was all returned to the correct designers. I also ensured that each garment was on it's correct hanger with any buttons and zips fastened to ensure that the outfit was as neat and presentable as possible for assessment. I then ensured that the garment bags were left in the correct order as specified on the list attached to the rail and returned the rail to the third year studio.

Design Assistant to Jisselle Pineada

Jisselle's project was a really interesting one to work on because her style and method of working is so different to my own that it gave me a chance to experience new and previously unknown techniques. Her project takes a very minimalist approach to construction where pattern pieces are cut specifically to minimise the number of pieces needed to construct the garment. For example her trousers  despite being detailed and complex looking upon completion only required 4 pattern pieces including those needed for the lining. This meant that there were less visible seams and the fabric was allowed to fall more freely to create an uninterrupted flowing effect.

Her taste for simplicity extended to her colour palette also as her garments were cream with the occasional splash of black lining for contrast. The way in which this was done was highly effective as any kind of print or bright colour could distract from the form of the clothes which was the designer's main focus.

My first tasks to help Jisselle were mostly preparation based. She had a lot of fabric to be prepared for cutting which we elected to steam rather than iron so as to remove the creases but to minimise shrinkage in the fabric as it was silk based. She also had a crepe which I began steaming but then decided to iron as the heavier fabric meant the creases were harder to remove.

After that we looked at the notes from Jisselle's previous fitting and started applying the alterations to her pattern pieces. Her patterns were all organised in one bag per garment which was labelled. Then each pattern from the first version to the third was colour coded. We began the last edition of the patterns by tracing off the previous versions and then coding the new patterns in blue. The alteration I helped with was to create lining to the trousers.

Due to Jisselle's trademark of minimising pattern pieces the facings needed to attach the lining had to be integrated into the two initial pieces required to construct the main body of the trousers. This meant tracing off the pieces exactly then mirroring the top 10cm section from the waistband. We also had to alter the fly in order for it to lie flatter against the body of the wearer.

Once all the pattern pieces were adjusted they needed to be cut out. Jisselle's cute her pieces with a rotary blade as opposed to scissors which was a new method to me. It was difficult to master but the cleaner line and greater control were obvious advantages.

Most of the work on Jisselle's clothing was within the pattern cutting so when it came to construction she completed most of it on her own. However I did attend her final fitting. I helped to dress the models  and give them shoes as well as assisting with pinning and alterations throughout the fitting. I then took photos for Jisselle before helping to undress the models again and store all the garments away in their garment bags to avoid them coming to any harm.

The end collection was beautiful and seamless. It had a light airy feel and was highly cohesive without being boring.

A Portrait Of Audrey Kitching

Audrey Kitching is an alternative model, designer and brand ambassador for several companies including Vans and Irregular Choice. She has appeared in a huge variety of magazines from NYLON and VANITY to Glamour and Cosmo Girl. She also stands up for animal cruelty by working closely with PETA and also starred in the H&M against AIDS campaign. After achieving so much and developing so far from her 'Scene Queen' origins I caught up with her to talk about her expectations of the future and views on happiness and success:

Where do you see yourself in 20 years time?
Hopefully still doing everything i am now, just totally evolved and in a different way. I also see spirtual healing as becoming a very much needed forefront in the world within the next few years, i will be able to put my reiki training to good use!

Is pink hair forever?  
Who knows ha, I keep saying I want to change it but never do. IT JUST FEEELS SO NATURAL TO ME! Well have to wait and see..

Do you think happiness and self-fulfillment is possible for everyone to achieve? 
Of course, the problem is people look at outside sources for their own happiness. If everyone realized it comes from within I think people would be able to find it more easily and start living a much more content life! 

What is your opinion on your own career to date?  
I love it, I think I have crossed so many boundaries and opened so many doors.. not only for me but other girls who are up and coming. That makes all the blood sweat and tears worth it in the end!

Three things you can't live without? 
my iphone, bubble baths and raw organic food

Why and how are you successful? 
I just work really hard, i don't take no for an answer, i go above and beyond ... anyone can do this, you just have to put the energy in. Most people quit, i don't believe in that. Failing is the most important stepping stone to success. You learn more from failing then you ever could from anything else.

Meadham Kirchhoff

Meadham Kirchhoff are a design duo of mixed national identities which is really brought out within their clothes. Edward Meadham is English born whilst Benjamin Kirchhoff is of French origin. They both graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2002- Edward from womenswear and Benjamin from mens- and launched their womenswear brand (Meadham Kirchhoff) in 2006 as part of the 'Fashion East' initiative.

 The pair have won the Emerging Talent- Ready to Wear Award at the British Fashion Awards 2010.

I am not personally a fan of Meadham Kirchhoff and find their clothes gaudy, impractical and plastic, like tacky kitsch toys from the 1980's. However in fairness the brand has developed and the most recent collection (A/W13) is of a completely different quality. Probably because they have taken colour and print out of the equation, gone back to basics and focused instead on silhouette and texture.

The press is full of nothing but praise for the brand and their future is a solid one without doubt, dispite much of the lines continuing impracticality and devotion to kitsch style they are here to stay.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe is a Japanese fashion designer, initially discovered by Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo. He was born in 1961 and was trained in Japan at the Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo. He graduated in 1984 before beginning an aprentaship with Commes des Garcons as a patternmaker. He eventually became a designer for the Commes des Garcons Homme line. Since 1992 he has worked under his own name but as part of the Commes des Garcons company. 'Junya Wantanabe Commes des Garcons' has been showing in Paris since 1993.

Wantanabe's work is known to be outlandish and innovative. He has a tenancy to work with technologically advanced fabrics and materials to push the boundaries and explore new shapes. It tends to be more structured and his style has been referred to as 'Techno couture'.

Wantanbe's most noted collaboration is with ALL STAR Converse to create a rang of footwear that featured bold print and innovative textile choices.

He is also famous for his cryptic statements, often leaving reporters with confusing phrases after shows such as "Anti. Anarchy. Army" after a military inspired show. He told Vogue in 2006 that "Sometimes, I would like a little bit more feedback. Criticism is better than silence."

Overall I feel that Wantanbe's work is very in line with the rest of the Comme de Garcons brand and he is the perfect compliment. His work is very clean and efficient whilst still working to push boundaries and supply the industry with a constant stream of fresh ideas. His work may not necessarily be to my taste and I would not purchase it myself but I can definitely appreciate the craftsmanship, skill and knowledge involved and admire it.

BFC

The British Fashion Council is an organisation set up to assist and guide newly established or fledgling designers with funding and business advice.

For fashion designers the following schemes are available:

NEWGEN
NEWGEN MEN:
This is a scheme that has been sponsered by Topshop since 1993. It is considered a prestitious launch pad from which designers can gain much needed publicity and show space for three seasons at the start of their career.

The Designer Fashion Fund:
This is for designers that show at fashion week, have stockists for their collection and are looking to expand. The prize consists of business guidance from senior industry experts and £200,000.

TLP (Talent Launch Pad):
Supported by ELLE magazine this is a scheme that only offers help in marketing your brand. It offers a professional shoot for the winning designers which includes renowned photographers, stylists and  creative directors giving up their time to assist in creating what is described as an 'extensive editorial'. Aside from this partners of BFC are encourages to promote the winning brands in their stores

Fashion Forward
Fashion Forward Men:
This is a support system for established designers which enables them to further their businesses and to show at LFW

Support Network:
BFC also provides a support network where both charitable organisations and established businesses that can support and provide services to new designers, manufacturers and students. This includes showcasing opportunities, providing studio space, IT services and more.

Aside from this the BFC also provides help to designers wishing to further their education through the Princess of Wales Trust and help to aspiring models through specific programmes.

My taste board

Keywords: Religious iconography, fluffy, kitch, feminine, emo- barbie, pop culture, alternative, experimental, classical twist, extravagant, bold, bright.

Why did my taste develop into what it is?

I think as I have grown up my taste has been fuelled by an underlying desire to get all the things I never could in the past. Being the middle child sandwiched between two boys it's impossible to get the chance to be girly when you're wearing your brothers hand-me-downs and your little brother gets yours. 

When I entered my teenage years and went to secondary school being unable to be girly in an all girls school made me an outcast and put me with the 'alternative kids' which was where I got introduced to the emo look. This lead to the 'scene' movement where you were able to relive your childhood, wearing clothes that featured kids cartoons, wearing the little kids backpacks, big plastic jewellery and heart shaped sunglasses. I got inspired by bloggers like Racquel Reed and Audrey Kitching.

Leaving home enabled me to grow up a bit but I got more girly after escaping the male environment and also got more freedom to have coloured hair, piercings and tattoos. 

Jasmine Wickens Taste board

The images Jasmine has chosen have a cool colour scheme lending to the water theme. The darkness also mirrors the depth of the water and the mystery in the images. Sexuality is questioned through elements of bondage and the strange femininity marred by androgynous undertones. Whilst this is all going on the presentation remains neat and clean like the cut of the clothes but still through provoking and exposing.

Interview with a Cosplayer

Lauren Du Plessis is a dedicated cosplayer and Japanese culture enthusiast and music review columnist for Electric Bloom Webzine. We went to school together years ago and now I caught up with her for a quick interview as part of my subculture study:

What does the term cosplay mean to you?

I’d start with the obvious meaning, making outfits! Something that lets you put your all into making it and that is rewarding to wear at the end. It can be individual or teamwork; either way, it’s a lot of fun. I know there’s a negative stigma still hanging around in mainstream western culture; that everyone who cosplays is an otaku who doesn’t have focuses anywhere else, but I think that’s changing, which is good news. There’s nothing like meeting all of your friends at big events after months of work on your outfit- the atmosphere is great, and I’ve never seen more hugging and complimenting strangers anywhere in my life. It’s a great confidence boost!

What characters to you cosplay and why?

Personally I don’t have a lot of time for making complex outfits any more, although I’d love a chance to get back into it- I’m just waiting for the next inspiration. I’ve done group cosplays from anime shows in the past, and more recently some members from Visual Kei bands. Intricate outfits are the best- no matter how red raw your hands are, or how strained your eyes are, it’s so worth it!

Why do you enjoy it?

It makes me feel like I’ve made something that other people appreciate- I’m not normally up for being the centre of attention all the time, but getting compliments from people about the effort I’ve put in, and having my photo taken, is such a great feeling.

Can you describe your look?

Wow, challenge accepted! My style has developed very rapidly over the past two years. I went through a teenage period of grunge and gothic-influenced clothing, but I quickly moved away from that when I started buying more Japanese brands and discovering more of the styles that emerge from the Harajuku district in Tokyo. From dolly kei to mori (forest) kei to visual kei, I’ve loved experimenting. The clothes I wear now are remnants of this exploration, so I suppose I look a bit like a jumble sale at the moment. I like it though!

Who do you look up to and admire?

I guess I go to the people around me first- my family, and close friends. I follow blogs by people whose fashion sense I admire too, although for hair, makeup and clothes my main influences are probably members from Japanese rock bands, Visual Kei or otherwise.

What music do you listen to?

In case you hadn’t guessed yet, almost exclusively Japanese rock! The artists at the top of my list haven’t changed in a while- I tend to follow bands now more closely than a few years ago. The best examples from Visual Kei are An Café, the GazettE, ScReW and Mejibray, while for rock it’s ONE OK ROCK. I’m not so keen on the pop music, although there are some artists I just can’t resist. And in terms of western music, I’ve never been able to give up on Muse and My Chemical Romance, although I like dubstep too.

How often do you dress up and what kind of events do you dress up for?

I dress up whenever I have the excuse too. Whenever I go to a concert, a convention, or any cultural event, I always make sure to wear one of my best outfits and put a lot of work into hair and makeup. That said, I try and wear something interesting as often as possible!

Who makes yous costumes?

I do! Nobody else is allowed to see until I’ve made significant progress, either! I’m quite protective of my cosplays, and I am constantly planning and making notes as I think of new solutions. It’s nice to have something creative to throw myself into occasionally.

How many do you have?

Only a couple at the moment, which is kind of sad now I think about it. I really should make an effort and make something new for this summer!

Would you say that cosplay was it's own social stereotype? How/ why?

I think at one point it was quite stereotyped, and to an extent there are still people who look at it that way. But like I said before, attitudes are changing, and I think it’s a really good thing for people to be enthusiastic about making their own clothes- everyone used to do it, after all!

Which clothing brands do you tend to look at/ buy the most?

Here in the UK I look for independent shops and alternative shops, although I love the lacy dresses you get from brands like Yumi. I’m a big Cyberdog fan too! But my favourite brands are sadly from the other side of the world- Listen Flavor, Grimoire Almadel, and Spank! 

Cosplay Subculture

Cosplay, short for costume play, is a subculture where the participants dress as characters- either well known or obscure- from cartoons, computer games or anime. The movement is widespread but seems to originate from the comic conventions in the US which inspired fans from other parts of the world to dress up. The movement then spread to Asia where it got taken to a whole new level then the new Japanese version came back around to Europe and the US where it remains popular. In her book "Costuming the Imagination: Origins of Anime and Manga Cosplay" Theresa Wing discusses two conflicting ideas:

"One side speculates that cos-play began in North America, during the 1960s, when people dressed as and role-played their favorite science fiction and fantasy characters, such as Spock from Star Trek and Robin from Batman (Bruno 2002a). This type of costumed role-playing (not yet called cosplay) spanned a variety of genres and may have inspired Japanese anime and manga fans to dress as their favorite characters. On the other side of the debate are those who speculate that cosplay was imported from Japan, coming to North America with the formations of anime and manga fan clubs (Bruno 2002a; Ledoux and Ranney 1997)."

However I believe that this only proves my boomerang theory that the Japanese who are known to appreciate western culture and let it inspire their own adopted the subculture from the American comic conventions. Then more recently western cultures have been inspired by modern Japanese culture as the popularity of Japenese game series such as Final Fantasy and anime's such as Bleach rises.

American comic convention goers in fancy dress

Modern Day Japanese cosplayer

However I believe that this only proves my boomerang theory that the Japanese who are known to appreciate western culture and let it inspire their own adopted the subculture from the American comic conventions. Then more recently western cultures have been inspired by modern Japanese culture as the popularity of Japenese game series such as Final Fantasy and anime's such as Bleach rises.

I attended the MCMEXPO in London to meet some Cosplayers and I was surprised by the wide variety of people involved. It was also interesting to see how they build a social life through this attend conventions, enter competitions and even club together with cosplayers from the same series or game to participate in photo shoots which they can then go on to post on forums where cosplayers can interact on an international level.

There are also idols for cosplayers to look up to such as Francesca Dani and Alodia Gosiengfiaowho are almost considered as supermodels of the cosplay world. They achieved fame through winning a series of competitions and gathering a vast online following, they both now make a living through being cosplayers as Dani charges a membership fee to her website to allow fans to access exclusive content and both Dani and Gosiengfiao are paid by games companies to dress up to promote new games and products.

The costume is obviously the most important part of being a cosplayer. The way that different people go about it is vastly different, some people just have one costume which they add to and perfect over time and show a complete devotion to that character and the cartoon or game that they originate from. Another approach is to try a number of different characters and collect costumes, I came across a number of these kind of cosplayers on Tumblr who share their different creations and purchases for different costumes online with fans and friends. The final method seems to be to Cosplay as a team, where several people dress up as characters from just one show or game and stay in character whilst dressed up interacting with each other as the characters would. There are also sub-subcultures within the Cosplay community as those who will only dress as final fantasy characters form one group, another specifically dress as only disney characters and others will dress only as Japanese musicians.

There is definitely a sense of pride amongst Cosplayers which originates from their costumes, the majority of which are either made by the Cosplayers themselves or made specifically for them. Some Cosplayers who Cosplay characters with simpler outfits also make up their costumes from found items. The look of Cosplayers is hard to define but generally they tend to be inspired by Japanese culture, taking much of their influence from anime cartoons. When it comes to hairstyles they tend to be either choppy and short or long and styled similarly to their characters, wigs are also a big part in changing their appearance and achieving the hairstyles of cartoons and video game characters which cannot be constructed in reality with real hair.

Cosplay is a truly unique subculture for not being based entirely on music. It's gatherings are not music concerts or gigs but instead conventions based on art that can take many forms such as graphic novels, cartoons, films or even just the aesthetic of real people.