Wednesday, 20 February 2013

Meadham Kirchhoff

Meadham Kirchhoff are a design duo of mixed national identities which is really brought out within their clothes. Edward Meadham is English born whilst Benjamin Kirchhoff is of French origin. They both graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2002- Edward from womenswear and Benjamin from mens- and launched their womenswear brand (Meadham Kirchhoff) in 2006 as part of the 'Fashion East' initiative.

 The pair have won the Emerging Talent- Ready to Wear Award at the British Fashion Awards 2010.

I am not personally a fan of Meadham Kirchhoff and find their clothes gaudy, impractical and plastic, like tacky kitsch toys from the 1980's. However in fairness the brand has developed and the most recent collection (A/W13) is of a completely different quality. Probably because they have taken colour and print out of the equation, gone back to basics and focused instead on silhouette and texture.

The press is full of nothing but praise for the brand and their future is a solid one without doubt, dispite much of the lines continuing impracticality and devotion to kitsch style they are here to stay.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe is a Japanese fashion designer, initially discovered by Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo. He was born in 1961 and was trained in Japan at the Bunka Fashion College, Tokyo. He graduated in 1984 before beginning an aprentaship with Commes des Garcons as a patternmaker. He eventually became a designer for the Commes des Garcons Homme line. Since 1992 he has worked under his own name but as part of the Commes des Garcons company. 'Junya Wantanabe Commes des Garcons' has been showing in Paris since 1993.

Wantanabe's work is known to be outlandish and innovative. He has a tenancy to work with technologically advanced fabrics and materials to push the boundaries and explore new shapes. It tends to be more structured and his style has been referred to as 'Techno couture'.

Wantanbe's most noted collaboration is with ALL STAR Converse to create a rang of footwear that featured bold print and innovative textile choices.

He is also famous for his cryptic statements, often leaving reporters with confusing phrases after shows such as "Anti. Anarchy. Army" after a military inspired show. He told Vogue in 2006 that "Sometimes, I would like a little bit more feedback. Criticism is better than silence."

Overall I feel that Wantanbe's work is very in line with the rest of the Comme de Garcons brand and he is the perfect compliment. His work is very clean and efficient whilst still working to push boundaries and supply the industry with a constant stream of fresh ideas. His work may not necessarily be to my taste and I would not purchase it myself but I can definitely appreciate the craftsmanship, skill and knowledge involved and admire it.

Tuesday, 19 February 2013

BFC

The British Fashion Council is an organisation set up to assist and guide newly established or fledgling designers with funding and business advice.

For fashion designers the following schemes are available:

NEWGEN
NEWGEN MEN:
This is a scheme that has been sponsered by Topshop since 1993. It is considered a prestitious launch pad from which designers can gain much needed publicity and show space for three seasons at the start of their career.

The Designer Fashion Fund:
This is for designers that show at fashion week, have stockists for their collection and are looking to expand. The prize consists of business guidance from senior industry experts and £200,000.

TLP (Talent Launch Pad):
Supported by ELLE magazine this is a scheme that only offers help in marketing your brand. It offers a professional shoot for the winning designers which includes renowned photographers, stylists and  creative directors giving up their time to assist in creating what is described as an 'extensive editorial'. Aside from this partners of BFC are encourages to promote the winning brands in their stores

Fashion Forward
Fashion Forward Men:
This is a support system for established designers which enables them to further their businesses and to show at LFW

Support Network:
BFC also provides a support network where both charitable organisations and established businesses that can support and provide services to new designers, manufacturers and students. This includes showcasing opportunities, providing studio space, IT services and more.

Aside from this the BFC also provides help to designers wishing to further their education through the Princess of Wales Trust and help to aspiring models through specific programmes.